It's not that difficult if you just go about doing it and replace what needs replaced. Seals and sleeves can easily be driven with an appropriate size piece of pipe. The shoe pivot bushings can be driven out with the application of some heat to the housing, then drive them with a sledge and socket. Brake jobs are just bull work. Not overly technical work... just bull work. The stuff is simple. Just make sure it's in good working condition... and MAKE SURE the maxi cans are good. Not leaking. Not rusted through and the springs apply correctly. I'd much sooner do a brake job on a tandem truck with s-cam brakes than ANY small vehicle with hydraulic drum brakes...
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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