The old Fords that had hand cranks, broke many arms and wrists, if the man trying to start it had his thumb around the handle, instead of laying beside it, against his fingers! If it did kick back, it would toss yer hand away from the crank. Some real strong guys could spin an old T to start it, especially when the engine had worn compression. Most guys just did the engine prime thing, did several pull-ups with the ignition off, listening to the "slurping" sound in the carb intake, and then giving a mighty heave of the crank, and it would usually start with the ignition key turned to "on" position. Another trick was to jack up one rear wheel, and then try to start it. Usually helped. Last was a tow with "Old Jack" the mule you had to coax out of his stall, to pull you and the car around to loosen the grip of thick oils, especially in Winter. Another way was to park it on a close-by hill, and coax it to start that way. One bad design was having the gas tank mounted beneath the seat. Less than a half-tank of gas, and you'd have to back up a steep hill! BTDT! I'll be 86 next September!
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Today's Featured Article - The Engine Rebuild Kit - by Curtis Von Fange. I always liked engine rebuild kits. They have all the replacement parts for overhauling an engine without going to the store to get gaskets, special measuring tools, or miscellaneous parts. They come neatly packaged, clean and tidy. But it's important not to let that packaging lull you into a false sense of security. The appearance of matching sleeves, pistons, rings, and bearings can cause frustration and agony if not properly measured and installed in a workshop environment. Following c
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