The old Fords that had hand cranks, broke many arms and wrists, if the man trying to start it had his thumb around the handle, instead of laying beside it, against his fingers! If it did kick back, it would toss yer hand away from the crank. Some real strong guys could spin an old T to start it, especially when the engine had worn compression. Most guys just did the engine prime thing, did several pull-ups with the ignition off, listening to the "slurping" sound in the carb intake, and then giving a mighty heave of the crank, and it would usually start with the ignition key turned to "on" position. Another trick was to jack up one rear wheel, and then try to start it. Usually helped. Last was a tow with "Old Jack" the mule you had to coax out of his stall, to pull you and the car around to loosen the grip of thick oils, especially in Winter. Another way was to park it on a close-by hill, and coax it to start that way. One bad design was having the gas tank mounted beneath the seat. Less than a half-tank of gas, and you'd have to back up a steep hill! BTDT! I'll be 86 next September!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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