I don't think the steel crank would help much in any 6.2s or 6.5s made by GM. It is sometimes hard to tell what fails first, but it seems that most of the blown-up 6.5s with broken cranks go like this. The main-bearing webs in the block develop cracks. Overtime they get bigger and longer. Finally, a main-cap literally breaks off, leaves the crank unsupported, and the crank breaks into several pieces. I've got several such engines laying in my junkpile.
I've pulled the pan off many good running 6.2s and 6.5s with 200K miles plus on them - and ALL had cracks on the main webs. There is an aftermarket studp-girdle kit available - but I doubt it really helps.
With the very last 6.5s that GM built, they attempted to better the failure rate by making the outside bolts on the main-caps smaller. Went from 12 mm down to 10 mm. With the smaller outside bolts, more metal was left intact in the block.
The new 6.5 engines available with forged steel cranks have much heavier blocks. Also use a much higher nickel-content alloy.
Non-degergent oil and oil with no zinc and phosphorus additives is still needed in some older tractors. Especially with wet brakes that can get ruined with modern oil. If sold as "motor oil" is has to be rated as "pure mineral oil." Easier to get it in a can called "transmission oil." 90W GL-1 transmission oil is basically the same thing as 40W non-degergent, no-addtive motor oil.
Tractor Supply also sells standard non-degergent 30W and 40W motor oil. It has all the anti-wear additives but no degergent additives. I use it in old tractors if they are all sludged up inside and I don't want to know any of it loose. If I rebuild an engine, and clean it up inside - then I use modern degergent oil afterwards.
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