With modern machine work, it was probably ready to work at less then 1000 miles. I'm not sure what you think (or was told) has to break in? Years back, break-in was mostly due to imperfections in the bore-job on the cylinder walls that needed to the rings and wall to wear a bit to "break-in." Not much of an issue anymore if the engine was actually new - and not some some cheap patch job. Is the new block OEM or the newere heavier blocks now being made? When in complete engines they are called "Optimizer 6500s."
One funny note. My friend bought a new Chevy Duramax during the first couple of years. He had been spoiled with his Dodge-Cummins getting 20 MPG. The new $60,000 Chevy with Allison trans never got better then 14 MPG empty and he was furious. He kept going back to the dealer and kept getting told it would need at least 20,000 miles to "break-in" properly. The truck now has 170,000 miles on it and never improved a bit. What a suprise. His old rusty Dodge still gets 20 MPG empty.
By the way, I'm curious. Did you buy one of the new heavy-duty blocks that are made now? Much heavier then the originals. Heavier heads, heavier block with a stronger alloy, and optional forged-steel crank. I'd love to have one but they cost a small fortune.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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