Air tunnel in the concrete is not much good- way better to get a complete floor, even for aeration. Need a full floor if you ever want to make it a dryer bin. Regarding unloading systems- the common 8 inch angled system has only a 6 inch under the floor. I"m switching two of my bins this summer to the 8 inch under floor. 6 is ok for a grinder/mixer, but too slow loading a truck. Reason I have an automatic batch dryer is because I had a bin dryer and stirator system first. Too much babysitting the stirator- they don"t handle wet corn very well, especially with only one down auger. Adding rings- make sure the rings are heavy enough to add to your existing bin. Compare literature of mfgrs for wall gauge per height. Some criticize Sioux for thin sheets, but mine have had no problems in over 30 years, one is the dryer bin. Dryer bins also need insulation or liner panels, storage bins do not. Add permanent curved screened roof vents to eliminate climbing and opening the covers when running the fan. Spreaders are a good investment- even with them, "core out" the bin after filling and run it back in to control fines. I like the MFS construction best. Also have Lindsay. Butler has a good rep for a heavy bin.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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