If the reservoir also supplies the hydrostat pumps, that's a potential way to damage them as well as the hyd. pump and they aren't cheap. Once the oil level was getting near the bottom, you would probaly get some cavitation(air) in the lines and that can damage pumps and other components. I'd loosen the suction line like the manual says to eliminate any chance of damaging the hydraulics or what I did to drain most of the oil from my Cat was buy a cheap($20) rotary barrel pump and a piece of thicker wall rubber hose(so it wouldn't collapse) to fit on the suction side. I stuck the hose in the filler and pumped about 90% of the oil out. I used the drain for the last little bit but it's kind of awkward right above the track. If there's a plate to get inside the reservoir to the suction strainers, you could take that off and either weld a fitting for a drain on it, or at the bottom of the reservoir. Of course this is if you have a steel tank. Being able to access the inside of tank would allow you to clean out any metal shavings from drilling a hole for a drain. My manual says to change the hyd. oil every 1000 hrs. It would be a real pain without a drain. Dave
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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