I have used starting fluid for many years on gas and diesel engines when cold & other conditions were such that I couldn't start, but not any with glow plugs. 1) It used to be labeled Ether, but now it is labeled Starting Fluid....that is because now days ether is one component, no longer 100% ether & in seating beads, it clearly is much less volatile after the change/dilution. 2) Some one said whiff, another 1 second shot...those pretty much describe my use, I could probably inhale what I use, but won't!
2) If you put enough it there for liquid to ever reach the cylinder walls, I guarantee that you way, way, way, over sprayed! 4) Burning oil off cylinder walls, well I can't speak on that, one way or another. 5) I have developed a liking to propane vs starting fluid on gas engines, but have never tried it on a diesel.......anyone used propane? 6) I have observed using a gasoline wet rag draped over the air intake used for this purpose (cold starting) and it seemed to start just fine on the vapors. My cautious approach comes from "we learn by mistakes, hopefully someone else's mistakes" & in my case seeing the insides of another fellow's engine following what I guess was a real load of Starting Fluid! Not pretty.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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