I got pretty fed up with this thing today and out of frustation, I replaced most everything. Not usually my nature but I'm tryng to get this road finished before it snows again.
So, I put in new points, new condensor, another new rotor, another new cap and even put in four new spark plugs. Note the old plugs looked perfect. Good gap and clean.
Also did a resistance check on all plug wires and coil wire even though they're all copper. All fine.
Also checked system voltage and all is fine.
In regard to questions about the distributor being out a tooth - nope, that's fine. Engine hasn't been apart in years and this problem just started.
So, put everything in. It started right up and I went back to pushing dirt. Ran fine for half an hour, then started breaking up and died again. I pulled the coil from the cap and held it about 1/4" from ground and cranked the engine. Nice big blue spark. Stuck the wire back in the cap and then checked spark coming out of the cap from one of the four poles - and nothing.
So, pulled the cap back off and found the brand new rotor with a new carbon track on it, just like the other one.
I gave up on it for today and pulled out my old Allis Chalmers crawler to finish up. I got too disgusted to mess with it anymore. Now . . . after all the years I've defended 1010s, I'm starting to hate the thing (it probably feels the same about me).
At this point the only thing that comes to mind is the issue of the rotor being inbetween poles when ignition takes place. I assume that will vary by changing point gap. Maybe as Bob mentioned, I'm going to have to find a way to determine time of spark as the rotor is pointing at a pole, and maybe that will require a non-standard points setting. Supposed to be .022" Like I said before - I never had to give that aspect much thought until now.
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