If they are harder to "un stick" it may be due to the fact THEY HAVE HUGE PISTONS AND BIG BORES and a lot of mass and surface area for things to rust n sieze together....In cases where they arent stuck too bad one might fill n soak n drain the cylinders with a witches brew of auto tranny fluid and diesel and brake fluid and remove the rocker arm shaft to avoid bending pushrods from stuck valves and get her rocking back n forth a little at a time to free it BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
If its stuck too bad the cylinders can be messed up and/or rings broken and siezed and to be fixed right she needs tore down. On the Deeres that means removing the rod caps and pulling the whole block out forward with pistons intact n then drive them out n fix any cylinder damage etc. its not any cheap or easy run
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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