OK, that is a good EXCUSE for me to keep running these slick tires on my 5020. I have two tires with excellent tread but have been putting it off because changing a 30.5x32 seems like it will suXX. Now I can say I am trying to save my drive train. On another thought I talked to a old JD service manager in my town that told me only time he saw inside a 5020 rearend was once an axle broke and they had to tear down to replace. He said you could see the flaw in the axle and it ran a few years like less than 1/2 intact. Anyway guys tearing the rear out of a 5020 are doing something VERY VERY wrong.
I want my 5020 to last forever, I don't see it as too heavy for the horses either, mine seems balanced and I only have a M&W turbo on my stock engine and have the pump set very moderately. It does not throw black smoke when in a bind, I pull a 20 foot schaeffer offset and it pulls it nicely in 5th, 16 shank Krause with 18 in sweeps (NOT TOO DEEP), 14 shank Graham Hoeme with factory shanks as deep as it will go. I don't feel I am overloading it and I really want to make it last so I ain't killing it. I Love that tractor and my blood is VERY VERY red....to the tune of that is my only green machine or implement.
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Today's Featured Article - Weldin Basics, Part 3 - by Curtis von Fange. Oxy-acetylene Welding - Part One In our series on welding we have taken a brief look at AC and DC arc welding along with basic techniques and safety equipment required for safe usage. Since our premise is to cover welding types that might best be used on a farm environment we have kept our overview purposefully simple and general. The second type of welding that this observer finds quite useful in
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