Lou, I've done that, left the other half up. In the hedgerow across the road, where our property butts up to the neighbors, the trees provide a nice privacy wall. Really healthy maple, split at the crotch one year, got that piece cut up, then another 1/3 split off, but after that, there was nothing else that would come down, completely healthy tree. I cut vertically up/down, to the partial stump and cut that at an angle to help the water run off. This maple was a thin/tight bark type, good sap too, never been tapped but was cut in late winter, I did boil up some syrup from it. I'm not sure if the tree paint that can be used where you trim limbs would help, usually rot and decay and or ants are what weaken these and black cherry, though the latter will hold on right till the end. This maple just outgrew it's ability to hold it's own weight, I see 2 more of the same genetics, looks like one could cinch a cable or a few around the weak area to prevent the split from getting bigger. Luckily, all are in places where there is nothing nearby, realizing that in some situations, no other choice but to take it down. Been a few years and the exposed area is still hard, weathered but no signs of insects or decay, remainder of the tree top is full of leaves and maintains the continuous sight line of trees, kind of glad I did it that way, hard to say what will eventually happen though.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown Tractors - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family�s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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