If the shaft turns when starting with the clutch pedal depressed, that would suggest a sticky pilot bearing, which supports the front of the shaft in the rear end of the crankshaft. If that's the case, and it's not too severs, it can be overcome to some extent with the idea about a thicker lube in the rear end,as long as that's practical where you live -- that 140-150 stuff is fine most of the year but can get pretty stiff in cold weather.
It could also be that the clutch isn't releasing fully. If your pedal free-play is set up correctly, that might result from a worn out clutch cover (often excessive wear around the joint where the clutch fingers are hinged to the cover).
Trick is that to get to the pilot bearing, you have to remove the clutch, so it's as much work to correct one as the other. If you do have to tear into it, I'd suggest a new pilot bearing at the least (the least costly fix in $$$), but check out your clutch while you have it out.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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