Don't know much about the price but used to install it years ago. Do it yourself, it's pretty straight forward. Find the lowest point on house and start there. Pull chalk lines around the house at the top of whatever height the starter strip is from this lowest point. Make sure you go all the way around the house so you know that when they are all level you end up on your very first mark. Otherwise one or more walls won't be level. Tack on the starter strip. Tack on the corners. Box out around the hydrant, service entrance (meter or electric), doors, windows, decks porches and anything else that you will have to cut and fit-up around with J-channel including under the eves (soffit if you are going to use it and which is what I'll call it anyway). Stand in your drive or on the path to what ever door is considered the main door to the house, then lap the siding away from that point on all the walls that you can see from there. Or if curb appeal is more important to you lap all the walls that can be seen from the road AWAY from the road. Nothing worse than a sagged vinyl lap opening up on a hot day for all to see. Maybe today's vinyl doesn't soften, this is the way I did it for a living 30 years ago. The instructions (if you get any ) will tell you how much to measure up for the next course. Snap all new lines. Keep it level! DON'T get carried away with nails being to tight. The vinyl should slip with a sticky hand applied but not so easy(loose) that the wind will rattle it around. When you get to a soffit you will either use J-channel or something new I'm not familiar with to finish it up. You might have to rip the last course to fit. Might even have to hand cut slots for the nails to slip through. If your house is fairly new the soffit might even be level with the base. Now if you have a gable end you will have to cut each course at the appropriate angle to fit on each end. Try to stagger the laps all over the wall so not to many are grouped in one area. Then when you start up the gable you can use a shorter piece that's easy to handle. Place it over the last course lining the top end up with the end of the course it's laid over. Using a combination square, square up to the line you snapped or marked for the top of your next course (or you can simply measure it horizontally from the end of the piece in your hand) to where the top will meet with the soffit. This is your gable angle. Mark the next piece of siding for the next course with this piece by lining up the top of the angle with the bottom of the next piece, then laying it on top and sliding it to that mark with the bottom and then marking the top. Clear as mud? There's an easier(faster) way but I can't figure out how to describe it here. Most times the angle will stay the same on both ends all the way to the top so flip-flopping the last piece around for the next ones works for the most part. You'll soon figure that part out. If this is to much info or (more likely) seriously outdated info sorry to take up so much space. If it's helped a little then good my day wasn't wasted. ...Randy
PS - Considering your handle do you have an idea as to how much a Winchester Model 12 field grade shotgun would be worth? It has what I call a flame arrester choke on it ( looks like a vented silencer) with a removable choke in the end made by Lyman. It hasn't been shot in at least ten years. It's still tight. It's at least forty years old. It was my Dads. Thanks!
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1951 Farmall H - by The Red (John Fritz). I have been a collector of Farmall tractors since 1990 when I first obtained part of the family farm in Eastern Indiana. My current collection includes a 1938 F20, 1945 H, 1946 H, and the recently purchased 1951 H. This article will focus on what I encountered and what I did to bring the 1951 NEAR DEATH Farmall H back to life.
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