ohiojim, When ya'll are ready to stop fooling around with this project and get it unstuck. follow these simple instruction...... Remove all tinwork, fuel tank, Battery, intake/exhaust/ carb assembly, Headamd all parts pretaining to the head. Next Remove pan, oil pump, Number all rodcaps, and remove NOW roll tractor outside, remove all combustiables from immediate area. Most engines are stuck on 1 or maybe 2 cylinders not all as a rule. Start with the cylinder with the most volume..... 1 at a time, fill with Diesel add a splash of gasoline set it on fire, Use any and all safety precautions....let the fire burn itself out drive the piston out from the bottom comming out the top. Do the cylinder with the 2nd most volume, set it on fire and drive it from the bottom. Then 3 then 4. Now as the volume decreases so will the amt of fuel to burn, and time for the cylinder to get hot and expand, pop the rust, so the piston can be driven out, 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, etc, etc time may be needed to get the piston and cylinder hot enough to pop the rust. Drinking coffee inbetween times helps pass the time I know of many many guys who have gotten and engine apart in 1 afternoon, 2 to 3 hrs or so. This method will allows you to salvage your pistons if possible and sometimes the cylinders too. Hope this helps. Later, John A.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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