Re: hydraulic line diameter?

Posted by BlueLight on November 02, 2000 at 11:15:53 from (216.208.109.82):

In Reply to: hydraulic line diameter? posted by greg reuter on October 31, 2000 at 17:42:00:

Just finished installing mine. I used
10ft 4000PSI - 3/8in ID Steel braided hose for the input and 9Ft of 1/2in ID 200psi Neoprene corded hose on the output. Make sure you get oil resistant for the neoprene. Cost me 60 bucks for the 3/8 and 25 for the later.
Since your doing your own setup,a few tips:
Always get a couple of 20in more than you
need and tuck the remainder in the housing tied down away from moving parts. The extra length is to save you from deconnecting the lines if
you have to break and seperate the housing to change the clutch.
The return (neoprene) can be clamped down
using regular hose clamp. Use 2 per fitting. But make all connections well, there is still some pressure on the output.
Do not use teflon tape on the hose fittings. Used a thread compound specially for it.
And when you apply it, start a few threads back
from the end.
The input hose should have at least 1 swivel
fitting, 2 is best. None, and you will find yourself trying to turn a 40LB ram as you screw
on the hose.Ha!.
Your cylinder should have a built in pressure
valve. That's what causes the complaining noise in
the cylinder when you hold down the activation
lever too long and the rod goes to it's limit.
You can test for it's functioning after everything
is installed. Let tractor run at slow idle, preferably a cold engine. Activate and hold the
lever. At it's limit if your valve isn't working
the engine will stall. If it is working you will hear the cylinder complaining (bypassing) and the engine will slow down a little but keep running.
(Last paragraph, courtesy of a elderly MF
mechanic. The actual pressure on MH implement ram
with timing gear pump is under 2000lbs. Output under 200lbs.)
Empty and clean tank and put new hydraulic oil in.
My system works fine.

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