First confirm the PCV valve and plumbing is not stopped up,,, I do not thing the seal has any thang to do with OP
Install a master OP checker gauge to confirm the light operation
I have never had any luck replacing a leak'n rear crank seal on a 4.0 so theirs a no guarantee statement noted and signed on the work order along with prepayment of the attempted replacement of the seal (this is away of run'n folks off with a worn out engine) I do recommend they find a fool that will guarantee his seal will fix the leak
Make sure the leak is not from the front of the engine,,, leaks of any kind will run down the pan rail and seam to B coming from the rear of the engine (BTDT)
Remember NO seal will retain excessive crank case pressure (blow by)
one more thang,,, the head gaskets do leak oil on the 4.0 out the right side of the engine and the oil filter adapter also (if it has a adapter) if the O/F screws directly to the block theirs no adapter,,, if its pointing to the back then their is one
Good engines but a worn out engine is a worn out engine
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Today's Featured Article - Weldin Basics, Part 3 - by Curtis von Fange. Oxy-acetylene Welding - Part One In our series on welding we have taken a brief look at AC and DC arc welding along with basic techniques and safety equipment required for safe usage. Since our premise is to cover welding types that might best be used on a farm environment we have kept our overview purposefully simple and general. The second type of welding that this observer finds quite useful in
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