Posted by Kruse on May 30, 2009 at 14:45:13 from (24.246.220.141):
In Reply to: ford truck posted by joseph moore on May 30, 2009 at 13:10:29:
There are some good suggestions here, and my post will be a little redundant, but here goes:
Soak the drum with some good penetrating oil a few days ahead of time. Spray the area around the wheel studs and the part where the axle sticks through the drum. Soak it up good with some Liquid Wrench, Kroil or P"Blaster. Forget about WD-40. That stuff is only good for drying out a distributor cap. When you are ready to do your brakes, hit the drum with a sledge hammer right at the 90 degree area. Don"t over do it or the drum or axle could get damaged. If nothing works so far, you"ll need a big torch. Get the area hot between the wheel studs and move the torch around a lot so the area doesn"t get too hot. Quite often the drum will just "pop" and release itself off the axle all by itself. When putting this all together, put just a very small amount of lith grease between the drum and the axle so this doesn"t happen again. Keep the grease amount very small so the grease doesn"t ever get on your brake shoes.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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