Not exactly a muscle car, but 66 Chevy pickup, short wheel base step side.
It was an Army truck, with the heavy suspension and Detroit locker rear end. 6 cyl truck 4 speed, but had LOTS of low end torque.
I used to have lots of fun going to small cities with at least one stop light for the stop light one block drag races.
I had no real top end, but with 12 inch wide bias ply low profile tires on the rear, and the locker rear end, I never spun, the front of the truck would just get light and GO.
Made the mistake of doing that one night about 100 miles from home, it was at least 10 below. She started knocking, made it within 45 miles from home before rod came out number one cylinder.
Then it got a 283, powerglide. Changed the heads, intake, and carb from a 327 truck engine with the big valves and Carter AFB carb. Dual glasspacks. I was good to go all the way around after that. Not too good MPG, but boy was it fun then.
Would still be driving it to this day, if it hadn't burnt up with a barn that burned down in the middle of the night. DOUG
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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