B & D , Back a few years when I was a bit younger and somewhere in the middle 1950's ,I pulled a JD Killefer 20 A ( a single shank on steel wheels) with a Cletrac crawler . It would handle it to about 20 inches ,later years I bought a 730 case and it would handle it to about 18 ,then would run out of traction. The 20A had an extra long shank from a large IH tool bar model and could go well past 24 in , but needed two tractors or cletrac and 730. I did drain lines for the milkhouse wash water with both tractors on it with the mole attached. I also drained wet areas that tractor would not go thru by using long cable across soft and steering with a snatch block on the cable and another long cable cross ways to another tractor. Always start at the lowest point(a large dug hole or a creek bank) and travel up the grade , then the water will run out the low point. 20 A was built in the 40's ,it was adj depth and was ground drive lift for the wheels.I still have it and one of my customers used it last fall to drain some low land. I think you may need some more tractor to pull yours, from the literature for the 20 A suggested HP is near 80hp and with mole or wings add some more and by all means put some fluid in the tires . he he
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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