Best thing you'll ever do. I've been doing that with a Brillion subsoiler minus mole ball for many years. Possible problem with doing it in the spring is that the soil will be too wet and you'll get a "plastic effect" rather than the nice fracturing that tilling in dry soil will do. If the soil is too wet you could end up with concrete like slots. Brillion recommends 20-40 drawbar HP per shank. Mine has three shanks and I pull it with a 57 DB HP (Neb rating) MFWD tractor that weighs in at 7000 lbs field ready. I pull in 3rd gear @ 3 1/2 mph. The first time over some 7 years ago was more difficult. Couldn't go quite as deep as I wanted. Now I go 17-18 inches deep anywhere. Shanks on 30" centers. I go over once in the fall leaving a nice rough finish. Soil mellows over winter and I then do my secondary tillage in the spring. One pass with whatever is appropriate, i.e. field cultivator, disc, springtooth, pulvimulcher, etc. Just to smooth and kill weeds. Holds down fuel use and time/expense, etc. Best crops I've ever had. I have a lot of red clay nine feet deep thanks to the last glacier, speaking of which, it feels like another one is coming. (;>))
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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