Posted by Goose on March 14, 2009 at 07:45:25 from (67.63.68.13):
In Reply to: Using Wood for heat posted by 37 chief on March 13, 2009 at 18:52:45:
As an Insurance Inspector, every time I encounter a wood stove on an inspection, I have to turn in a "Supplemental Wood Stove" report. The report goes into minute detail about distances to walls, to the floor, whether the surrounding surfaces are combustible, chimney constuction, etc.
If a wood stove is UL Approved and professionally installed with non-combustible floor and walls nearby, insurance companies normally have few problems. However, you wouldn't believe the contraptions some homeowners cobble together. I did one a couple of weeks ago, where the stove itself was OK, but the chimney was laid concrete blocks with no liner. There was combustible creosote everywhere. Creosote was running down the sides of the chimney both inside and outside the house, running out of the cleanout trap, on the outside it had run down the chimney and onto the roof, etc. The chimney simply could never get hot enough to keep creosote from forming.
Plus, they had a big box of green wood, intermixed with sawed up pieces of pressure treated lumber, next to the stove. All the while the lady of the house was telling me how much they enjoyed the wood stove. Company policy prevents me from making any comments whatsoever to a homeowner, either positive or negative. All I do is photograph and report what I see at that point in time but I'd have liked to have been a mouse in the corner when an underwriter saw all of that.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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