If you can't get a blower to sink down thru the snow because it is hard packed, you sure won't be able to get a big bucket to. The blower is alot heavier than a blade and if your top link is adjusted correct, the moldboard on the blower will cut under the hard pack. I occasionally have to use the bucket at an angle to scrape right down to blacktop but even then, with the front wheels off the ground to get enough down pressure, I come in with the blower to clean it up. You haven't said what tractor you are using, if it is some beast like a 1466 or a 5020, then an over sized snow bucket might work better because you have the weight to make it take a good bite. But if you are using anything much lighter than that, you will still be better off using your blower, cocked at the right angle and maybe with some extra weight thrown on it. I use an 84" blower on my 720 and will fill a couple feed bags with sand and throw those on top of the blower. With the right angle on the blower so the moldboard hits the ground, 90% of the time it is scraped right down to blacktop. I have a 1/8 mile up hill the whole way driveway at the barn and have figured this way works best for me.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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