It's doable. I did one a while back for the first time with some advice from the guys here.
CaseIH is going to tell you they can't come up with a kit until you can give them a number off of a ih cylinder. Good luck finding a number on an old painted cylinder.
The hyd. shop may be cheaper for a seal kit but a ih number won't help them.
You probably have to take it apart and take it or the seals into caseih or the hyd shop to match up the seals. Those cylinders are probably a standard size but use different types of packing and seals.
Then you may need a clamp and tin/stiff cardboard to make a make shift ring compressor to compress the new piston seal to get it to go in without being nicked up.
A bench vise would be handy although doable on the loader with one end loose.
Does yours have the narrow slot about a inch or so long at the end of each cylinder where the retaining wire comes out and goes back in? Pry the end of the wire up so you can grip the wire with some vise grips and rotate the end nut with a wrench in the correction direction to unspool the wire.
For a first timer, figure a few hours plus parts chasing.
BUT, the leaking cylinder will not allow air in to the point that it would affect your power steering. Fluid goes from the pump to the steering first and then on to the loader so that is not your source of the power steering problem. You would have to post back with more details about the steering issues. I've been having those too. It may be a weak pump, issue with the flow divider sticking, steering cylinder, or a relief valve or something causing it to bypass.
You can check other posts around here but you would first check and change the filter and see if the screen is plugged causing low flow. Or if cavitation may be an issue from an air leak at the suction, then adding 5 extra gallons of hytran over the full/check plug level fixes that unless you want to split the tractor to change the pump suction seal. Most people just run it with extra hytran.
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