1st of all, don't even think the exhaust bolts are going to turn out..!! Yes, tapping with a small brass hammer and using plenty applications of penetrant will be needed.. Don't twist any of them off, if you don't like drilling and taping..!! Get the exhaust bolts to loosen by repeatedly taping with the small brass hammer and using penetrant, until they appear loose all the way down to the head..DON'T twist them off.. Now, if they will turn out..you can try it--with CARE.. If not, you will need to cut the stuck bolt-heads off and remove the rest.. Raise the manifold up as far as it can go and cut the rest of the bolts off, leaving as long of stubs as possible.. Remove the manifold.. Heat the stubs RED hot and while still somewhat red, tap them on the end with a medium palpein hammer.. This will break the rust loose in the head.. Let them cool and they will screw right out with a pair of Vise-Grips.. If the exhaust gaskets have been blown-out very long, the head will still need to come off and need machined flat, or the new exhaust gaskets will never "hold".. Sorry, but you "asked" how to get it done...!! Take your time and work Patiently...!!!!
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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