I wouldn't be dumping anything in the hydraulic system other than the appropriate grade oil approved by/for Deere. IE. Hyguard or it's equivelant. Brake jobs are expensive and the bits that disperse through the back half of the tractor are nasty to remove. It just creates a lot of problems.
Beyond that, what I know of Lucas engine oil additives is that they have a heavy base stock that improves viscosity somewhat. In addition they have larger quantities of the same additives that any good diesel engine oil uses; just that they use a bit more. Personally I wouldn't worry about blow-by whatsoever. I wouldn't worry about oil consumption too much either so long as you keep the level up. From what I've seen, an engine has to be pretty bad to use more than a quart of oil in 100 hours use... and if it's worse than that, it's probably time to drop a kit in and be done of it. The excess fuel you use from running a worn out engine will eat a big hole in the price of an engine kit pretty quick. I'd suggest you leave the additives alone. They're just there to help empty your pocket.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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