My Dad was a pumpman for twenty some years before he died. I too worked pumps with him as a kid and then fulltime for twelve years until I went fulltime Active Guard and Reserve in 1983. We sold Meyers and Jacuzzi pumps and tried to keep spare parts on hand. For quickest turn times for dairies and feedlots, retaurants, etc we would even rob new pumps of their cases if need be. Much cheaper than another new pump and was the preferred method. Try your dealer for this option. We used to save many cases though as the others have said by drilling and tapping the ends of the crack(s) for a quarter inch bolt, inserting the bolts, grinding down heads and veeing the crack out. Preheat the casting, flux well and braze with brass rod. Depending on your particular pump and the location of the crack it is probably better to dis-assemble the casing. Disa-assembly allows better access and handling and it also prevents melting the common plastic and rubber parts in newer pumps. Obviously due to some breaks extending through machined mating surfaces, some cracks were beyond repair. We also sometimes used the same preparation with a two part epoxy then known as Cold Weld or Epcoweld. It was similar to some of the epoxys currently available. PS Remember to clean any corrosion or other foreign matter from the case and fittings or you may have problems with FOD plugging your injector's venturi nozzle.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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