I think 24 HP is too small for any kind of tractor mounted blower. I feel you need at least 40HP, live PTO, live hydraulics, and a slow reverse to make these work. A good blower should have a feed augur separate from the throw auger.
I remember our neighbor had a setup like this, and it worked quite well on his 60's era 2WD mid-sized Deere farm tractor in Michigan's snowy Upper Peninsula.
After years of plowing with a front and rear blade, and impressed by the neighbor, my Dad bought a cheap single stage Vee unit to run off our Ford 9N. It proved a dismal failure. It would clog and overwhelm the 9N in heavy, wet snow. Dry snow would blow OK, but the operator would get covered with "overspray" very quickly.
Eventually, I was old enough to go plow snow with the tractor, but even as a 13 year old the novelty of playing with "adult Tonka toys" wore off quickly. It was cold, miserable work.
Ultimately, my dad sold the cheap blower and bought a Meyers snowplow for the 4WD pickup truck. That setup proved the cat's meow. You could plow snow in shirtsleeves, with the heater and radio going. With chains on all 4, the truck could go anywhere the tractor could. We never went back to plowing snow with the tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Measuring with Calipers - by Staff. The legs of inside calipers are curved outward at the extremities to facilitate measuring small holes, while outside caliper legs have a large curve inward to increase their capacity for large work. Firm-joint calipers are adjusted approximately by the hands and then set to the feel of the work by tapping them on a metal surface. It is a common practice when opening calipers by this means to tap the top of the joint. It is better, if possible, to tap the inside of the legs, as repeated blo
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