Billy, from your response I can see you heard what I said and are taking this seriously, this thread is gettin a lil long so I will just throw out a few things as a final statement hoping to educate yall:::: One cant explain in a few paragraphs here what it takes books and years of study to comprehend...
NEUTRAL First of all its A GROUNDED CONDUCTOR. Its grounded cuz in the service entrance panel its bonded to the ground buss i.e. its GROUNDED and its also a carrys current.........
Its necessary because its effectively the mid center point of a 240 volt transformer which is why from either end L1 or L2 theres only one half the voltage i.e. 120 volts, so thats how you get 240 votls PLUS two legs (L1 to N, L2 to N) of 120 volts from a 120/240 volt single phase 3 wire service.
Now, if all the 120 volt loads were perfectly balanced with the exact same currents on BOTH L1 and L2, there wouldnt be any Neutral current, HOWEVER it carries the loads imbalances otherwise.
GENERATOR. Its typical for a 120/240 volt single phase 3 wire portable generator that it supply plug n cord equipment and theres NOT any requirement that the frame be grounded. It has its Neutral bonded to its iron frame which serves as its own GROUNDING ELECTRODE SYSTEM...HOWEVER if you use such a generator as a backup to feed your home electrical system and DO NOT WANT TO USE A 3 POLE TRANSFER SWITCH (i.e. ONLY switch the 2 hots) then the generators neutral DOES NOT BOND TO ITS IRON FRAME (you remove that bond/jumper/connection). Also in such a case the gennys iron frame, as other non current carrying metal enclosures, is bonded to the EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR (the bare/green) THEREFORE WHEN USED IN THE SCENARIO ABOVE (remember theres danger in bonding a Neutral to the Equipment ground buss at places OTEHR THEN one single place at the service entrance) the generators Neutral to frame bond must be severed such that its iron frame is still safety electrically grounded (to bare/green equipment ground buss) and so that youre not mixing neutral and ground together AGAIN at a place downstream from the service entrance. One last time, the gennys N to G bond is severed,,,,,,the gennys Neutral needs to be bonded to your panels Neutral (so 120 and 240 both work) ,,,,,,,,,the iron frame of the gennys still needs itself to be grounded,,,,,,,,BUT YOU DO NOT want to re bond any N to G downstream from the service entrance SO REMOVE THE GENNYS N TO G
BACKFEEDING USING ONLY A 3 POLE RECEPTACLE
Same problem, a 240 volt 2 pole 3 wire grounding receptacle ONLY has 3 terminals, L1, L2, Ground........If you do what I think you intend YOU ARE MIXING NEUTRALS AND GROUNDS. What you would need would be a 4 wire receptacle, 2 hots, Neutral, ground......
Without getting too long, if you mix n match neutrals and grounds at places other then the single points at the service entrance, and given the certain hazardous combination of open and shorted conductors YOU CAN ENERGIZE THE EQUIPMET GROUND SYSTEM so when you come on contact with a metal frame of an appliance YOU CAN DIEEEEEEEEE
The bare/green EQUIPMENT GROUND BUSS and the NEUTRAL BUSS are boned only ONCE at the service entrance NOT AGAIN DOWNSTREAM so you gotta be careful with these backfeeds and transfer switches and aux generator hookups.
Yall stay safe n have a Merry and Blessed CHRISTMAS its a celebration of the birth of Jesus Christ and despite atheistic objections, its A FEDERAL HOLIDAY......
John T Long retired Electrical Engineer and a lil rusty on this stuff but still believe this will keep yall safe
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