There is a part, the parts book calls "Cover Assembly." Its the steering column enclosure, has a three bolt flange to the valve on the bottom. The seal is in that, about there the diameter of the straight tubes change. Its held by a flange. Don't knock out the flange when tapping out the seal. That makes a mess and 18 or so years ago when I did it MF only sold the whole assembly, not that part alone. They did sell a seal kit. You have to take off the steering wheel, and the dash to get that "cover" off. Its not hard to tap out the seal and shove a new one in. The seal has MF part number 1 751 702 M1. Mine hasn't leaked since, hasn't needed PS oil either.
I took the part with the broken flange to a good machine and welding shop and he fixed it. I don't know the details. He also made a new piston and piston rod for the cylinder and the total cost was 1/3 the MF price for the cylinder assembly.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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