The generator usually shows little to no charge at slow idle. The battery will be supplying power.
Some negative chassis regulators get used on positive chassis equipment and suffer shorter life.
It's important to get the cutout and voltage regulator set correctly. The cutout needs just enough tension to ensure it opens when the trator is shut off.
The voltage needs to be set with a voltmeter and a fully charged battery. Setting the regulator via the ammeter like most old timers did caused the battery to be chronically under or over charged.
As previously stated every connection must be clean and tight. Contact through a newly painted regulator to a newly painted generator is iffy.
Fluxuating current can be from dirty,stuck brushes/holders or a dirty/out of round commutator with high mica.
12V is often a bandaid fix that covers the symptoms but not the causes.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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