We used insulated A/C ducts in the attic (putting the A/C outlets up high instead of trying to push cool air up from floor vents). And, yes, they do 'cool' the attic a bit, but there is less cooling loss than if the attic was hot.
Our attic is not vented, no need. The attic is a semi-conditioned space thus no condensation or mold problem. We don't heat or cool the outside. Our energy dollars stay in the house.
Makeup air is provided by earth cooling tubes, but really, whenever you open a door, use the fireplace, run a bathroom fan or the cooktop vent or the clothes dryer you are pulling fresh air into the living space. Our house never seems stale or stuffy.
As far as the wood not being able to 'breathe' and thus rotting early, rotting requires oxygen. A sealed piece of wood should last forever. Consider the shipwrecks where the lumber is at a depth where there is almost no oxygen in the water, the timbers are like new.
Yup, Icynene is more costly up front but won't get wet like cellulose, works better then fiberglass and you fix your cost at today's dollar more so than buying cheap insulation now and paying more escalating energy costs down the road.
We closed the house in during the winter. Without heat, just passive solar from the windows kept the place about 60F during the day and about 50F at night. The outside temps were around 30F at that time. Without running the A/C our place would stay about 80F on a 100F day. Not bad.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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