Rick & Dean made a good point, but I don't agree 100%. We many times do put plastic under floors if there is poor drainage. We kind of have better luck if we use dry sand under the slab and keep it dry. Plastic will stop wicking, but if you have dry sand under the slab it will draw the moisture away.
I feel you can do anything you like, but if you don't have insulation, and heat the building you will always have some issues with moisture. Not practical at all, so ventalation is the next best idea. If you ventalate you move the moisture in the air flow.
To make my point grab a glass of ice water and watch it sweat as it hits warm air. You can not stop this process with a moisture stop. Your concrete and building will sweat as you have seen. Another example is grab a chunk of frozen steel and carry it inside the warm house--again sweating will happen.
Now if you put your ice water inside a insulated class you have no condensation, or only a little.
If it is a option when you hit those certian days you can just open every door and it will help. Again not practical at all unless you work inside the building every day.
Your options are not jackhammering out the concrete anyway, so ventalation is your best option, and as another person said try the little options first before powering up a big fan etc. Yet we all know if you mop the floor in your kitchen and blow a fan on it you can cut the time it takes to dry the floor.
In our area if you have a metal building that is not insulated you will get a wet mess on certian days---interior rain storm.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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