You need to put that corner of the car on a jack stand with the wheel removed. Then loosen the caliper and tie it out of the way and slip the rotor off. You will need the proper size metric socket to remove the nut from the end of the axle. It sticks in my mind it's a 42mm, but I may be wrong on that. After removing the nut from the end of the axle, unplug the wiring harness to the ABS sensor on the back side of the hub.
Then there will be three cap screws, possibly Torx, holding the hub to the steering knuckle. They could be from the front or back. Remove those, and the hub should slide right off the axle. It's been my experience that sometimes the grease seal comes apart and part of it stays in the steering knuckle. Make sure that doesn't happen. (A new seal comes on the new hub). Reverse the procedure to install the new one.
If it's a rear, pull the brakes out of the way and there should simply be four cap screws holding the hub to the knuckle. Unplug the ABS harness and remove the cap screws.
I wouldn't have any problem with using one from NAPA.
Chilton shows 1.4 hours for the fronts. I've done them in 45 minutes.
There may be minor variations from vehicle to vehicle, but this will give you an idea. Good Luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Trailering Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. One of the fun things of summer and fall are the parades and tractor shows that go on across America. Many owners of tractors travel long distances to attend these shows and they usually take their restored iron along with them. Safe trailering practices and inspections will ensure that the event is a fun one. A good habit to develop when using a trailer is to give that �quick look over� before taking it on a trip. Before hooking up to it check the tongue for proper operation. The latche
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