Drilling the bolts isn't so easy with the later engines. The older Wisconsins had cast-iron heads, soft valves, and split-skirt pistons. The later ones - D series - have aluminum heads, Stellite exhaust valves with rotators, and cam-ground aluminum pistons. Best bet with your soft heads is to use drill guide so you can drill a small hole in the center of the broken-bolt. Then, remove the guide and the hole will keep larger drill-bits centered. With the steel-alloy bolts against the aluminum head - electroylsis causes them to fuse together. So, the threaded part of the bolt in the cast-iron block may not be stuck as bad as the shank where it passes through the aluminum head. In regard to your valves - if one was sticking partially open - you wouldn't hear any ticking. But, this sort of thing tends to happen after an engine has sat for a long time - and gotten rust on the valve-stem. It can also happen another way from overheating - but usually when that happens - the valve sticks when hot - but then frees up once the engine is cool. Any valve work on the valve seat or face requires pulling the head. Sometimes you can free a stuck valve though - just by reaching in beneath the tappet-cover. In regard to your oil being thick? No, if anything it's a little thin. That engine is designed to run with straight 30W in any temps over 40 degrees F. I don't even think it has a pressure-oil system - but I don't recall off-hand. Most of the Wisconsin twins and V-fours don't use pressure oil for lube - just use the oil pump to squirt oil on certain parts. But - some of newer engines were changed a bit - and a few had drilled crank-journals with oil ports.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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