First you have to find out what driven gear you have. And who made the transmission where that gear rides. Then you have to do the math to find out how many more teeth you need. Then you can start with the parts room at the nearest dealer for the make of transmission. Sometimes its hard to get enough teeth on the driven gear and you have to change the driver and the driven. I know Ford parts counters have a book of speedometer gears.
I changed my F-150 from 3.08 to 4.10 gears. It had an 18 tooth driven gear, and I computed I needed a 24 tooth driven gear for the same driver. I had to go to a couple dealers who customized Mustangs to find a 23 tooth driven gear (6 months later truck and it would have been a computer setting). Since the teeth on that gear are very thin, I bought a spare. So far in 80,000 miles I've not needed the spare.
It should be that hot rod shops that sell rear axle gears carried the speedometer gears, but I've not found that to be the case.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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