The first thing I'd check is the water pump. Make sure there isn't a green streak coming from the drain hole on the bottom of the pump housing. If you're working the tractor reasonably hard it will get hot enough to evaporate the coolant that leaks out through the water pump drain, but there will be a green powder trail there... If so, replace the water pump.
Beyond that I'd check for bubbles in the coolant indicating a bad head gasket.... but ususally if they're losing any amount of coolant from that, they pressurise and blow it out the radiator overflow. You'd get that square in the face, so you should notice that.... Ford blocks are also somewhat known for water jacket perforation due to cavitation erosion.... but that generally presents itself as coolant in the oil. I'd check the water pump first, then look for bubbles in the coolant.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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