I spose that would depend somewhat on the tractor. I dunno about the 2 cylinders, but if it's a later, more conventional tractor then just look at the plate. If it's grooved up or the PTO drive hub splines (if it has one) are bad, then you would replace it. Generally speaking, I think if you let the clutch go to the point where it was completly useless and slipping to the point where there was no drive, then the PP should be changed anyway and the flywheel ground to remove the grooves from it.... that's if you want the clutch job to last. There are always rare instances where you would get away without that, but not many.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Oliver 70 Row Crop - by Staff. The Oliver 70 was part of the "Fleetline Series" and was manufacturered from 1937 to 1948. The row-crop configuration could have either dual or single front wheels. The Oliver 70 was also offered in the standard, orchard and industrial configurations. The tractors were sold in Canada. An early advertisement states "Power when you want it - power when you need it - power to help put in crops when field conditions are right and time and help are limited. That's the power you'll find in an Oliv
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