Your problem IS the no voltage on the two small terminals. With the ignition key off, whether gasoline engine or diesel, you NEED 12 volts on the two outside terminals of the three terminals. When you turn on the ignition switch to start the engine, again whether gasoline or diesel, you need voltage on ALL THREE terminals for the slternator to work. You only need a diode or resistor in the switch line if the engine is battery ignition as the ignition can be backfed from the alternator causing the engine NOT to die when the ignition switch is turned off. The resistor is rated at 10 ohm 7 1/4 watt normally found in the wiring loom of the GM vehicals that the alternator came on. I have used 10 ohm 10 watt resistor from Radio Shack. The diode is ok to. NOT NEED on a diesel. Find a 70's era automotive repair manuel. Chilton's or Motor's should have a wiring diaghram of the 3 terminal internal regulated Delco alternator in their general repair section on alternators I have used this alternator to retrofit a divers number of machine from generator to alternator: 4 C-II Gleaner combimds, 88 Oliver, MT John Deere, 8n Ford. The 88 Olivar did not have an ignition switch to switch on the altenator so I used a HOBBS switch in the oil pressure line to energize the alternator. No resistor or diode needed.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1951 Farmall H - by The Red (John Fritz). I have been a collector of Farmall tractors since 1990 when I first obtained part of the family farm in Eastern Indiana. My current collection includes a 1938 F20, 1945 H, 1946 H, and the recently purchased 1951 H. This article will focus on what I encountered and what I did to bring the 1951 NEAR DEATH Farmall H back to life.
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