pull the air cleaner and shoot some starter fluid into it...if it doesn't fire, you have an ignition issue. pull the recoil starter and make sure the flywheel magnet is rust free, then turn it under the mag and make sure you only have about a matchbook of gap between the two. hang the pull cord back on, hold the plug wire in your hand and give it a pull. If you didn't get zapped, you have a points problem- probably a spiderweb in it. You can pull the flywheel and clean/replace the points, or (better) get the little electronic ignition module kit for it and forget about the points forever.
If it DID fire when you gave it starter fluid, follow everyoe elses carb suggestions. Diaphram that pull fuel from the tanl is probably gummed up.
Wards musta sold a million of those orange and white muvas- seems like there's been one in my family since i was old enough to get out of the way of one.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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