Basically, when you're sawing, you never let that chain get any duller than when you know it's dull already. By not allowing it to get any duller, you eliminate the chances of rounding the crest of each cutting edge (the flat dog where the cutting edge is found). By sharpening when saw performance shows signs of faltering, you'll save time by making two or three swipes with the file per edge compared to 6 or 7 per edge when you've rounded over the whole edge.
As mentioned, you'll never see a good logger using one of those sharpener contraptions. It is not hard to do, just be patient, and go with the angle of that edge (provided that you did NOT let it go too far). Make sure you use the right file for your chain - stihl has a guide specifically for this
There is such a thing as having a chain too sharp. I know everytime i get that chain too sharp, the saw won't pull it through the wood.
If you're making 1/4-3/8 inch chips, you're making double time. If you're only putting out salt and pepper, you got to get that chain sharpened fast.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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