The engine crank is not ballanced, it is dependant on the equality of the wt of the pistons and tha dynamics of motion to avoid shake. (they put both cast iron, and cast/forged aluminum pistons in them W/O changing the crank. It will have rocking couple, front to back, ballance issues, but not dramatic. With all not used parts gone, and galleries plugged to prevent oil pressure loss, I think it is just fine. (and reversible). Use the front two cylinders. It is also important to use only one insert to plug up the bearing oil holes, and a piece of gasket to prevent marring the grank where the hose clamp would hit it, the crush on the inserts will keep them loose, and there is no need for them to move.
Keep all the parts in plastic bags in a waxed box to allow reassembly when sold. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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