I dont think its a good idea to put synthetic oil in an old motor thats full of sludge.It will start leaking everywhere.I dont know about the molecules but it looks thinner to me when its hot.If you rebuild a motor and have it boiled out,put new seals in it(better check if the seals will work with synthetic)and put synthetic oil in from the start it would be fine. You may want to know this,years ago they made synthetic oil to replace gear oil,80 weight as I remember.A driver was driving,had a seal go out and got it fixed on the road.Somebody added synthetic oil to the mineral oil in the transmission and it ruined the transmission.The synthetic gear oil was not compatible at all with mineral oil and it sort of congealed or tuned real hard inside all the galleries of the transmission.I tore the transmission apart and tried to save as much as I could,but about all that was left was the case and it had to be steam cleaned.I dont think its still like that,and I have not heard of a motor doing that,but its not a good idea to mix them I dont think.You could never get all the old oil out of a moter very easy without tearing it down and cleaning it in a hot tank.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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