I'll have to plead ignorance here as to what exactly the Firecraters are. Do they boost compression? When I worked for Deere, we installed quite a few high-compression pistons that Deere sold as "High Altitude." We also used M&W high-compression pistons. With either of them, smoking was always more of an issue if the cylinder walls were not perfect. That's the way it works with any boost in compression. The higher the CR, the less tolerance for wear. We quit using them early 80s since rebuilt engines did not last as long with hard farm work and detonation with regular gas was one of the issues. It soon became a "non-issue" since most farmers went over to all diesel - except for light work like raking hay.
Back to break-in and new engines. If all the machine work is high-grade from the start - very little break-in is needed. From there, the more imperfections, the more break-in needed since the metal parts have to wear into each other until good sealing occurs. In some engines - that will never happen - especially if the cylinder-walls are tapered or scored - or the piston ring grooves are too wide.
With your engine - I don't know exactly what you did. If you did a good quality bore job - and the pistons are good - then there's no real time limit on the break in - ecxept . . . When parts break-in properly, wear almost slows down to a stop and friction is at a minimum. We've had engines that, instead of breaking in, wound up scuffing the cylinder-walls because the cross-hatch hone-marks were worn off before a protective glaze was created. The cross-hatch is needed to give oil a place to sit. You also might be burning oil through the valve guides - which would really show up when throttling down - rather than when powering up. If we had it at our shop - we'd tell you to beat on it like you're mad at it and see if it improves. We found that to break-in tractors we just rebuilt that lacked PTOs and could not be loaded on the dyno - we'd take them for a long ride on a long steep hill - going up. This gives you the ability to control the break-in load at different loads and RPMs without overloading the engine. Lug it down in a high gear a bit, then downshift, take the load off, and throttle it up. What I have witnessed on some fresh rebuilds that were not broken in properly - is scuffed and scored cylinder walls - and piston rings that "walked" around the pistons until all the gaps lined up.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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