The chains you have are not DOT spec but will hold your load just fine as long as the hooks are of at least the same grade AND if you have enough of them.
Best way is to have two pieces of chain (You've got 16 footers which is long -- use each one like two individual chains by binding down the ends with a piece hanging slack in the middle) on the back of the tractor (axle housings are better (stronger than the drawbar) and at least one on the front. If your trailer is short, use two sections of chain on each end, with the chains pulling toward the middle of the tractor instead of off the ends. Bear in mind that you can stop faster than you can accelerate, so it's as important (if not more so) to have it tied down so that it can't break loose going forward and into your truck as it is to keep it from rolling off the back. A lot of folks will throw an extra chain hand tight (i.e., no binder) on to keep it from rolling back in case something fails.
The over-center binders are the ones with the big lever, that cams over to tension the chain. Less costly than the ratchet style, but a tad harder to get and keep tight. Always helps to have a 3 or 4-foot pice of pipe to use as a lever in pulling them down.
Whatever binder you use, stop after 10 miles or so and re-tighten anything that has slackened, and again at 50 miles, and then every time you stop for fuel or a haircut.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown Tractors - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family�s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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