I'd put that money towards a front end loader for that 120hp tractor rather than a rear blade. For that much tractor a rear blade that won't be turned into scrap metal the first time you use it is going to be expensive, those 3pt blades you find all over are not meant to go on tractors that big. They do make such blades, but you can count on spending atleast a couple thousand for one. On a 4wd tractor you don't need to run chains, they manage quite well, unlike a 2wd thats useless without chains. Like it has been said, they will go until they get high centered and 4ft is beyond what they can do. I think you'll find 120hp is going to be expensive snow removal with todays fuel costs. All I got to say is get yourself a big bucket to go on that loader, so you can make the most per pass. Narrow tires are better than wide ones on ice and snow, what you want is to be able to bite down into the surface for traction, wide ones makes good ice skates. Stay away from rice and cane tires, those are hard rubber, and totally worthless in winter, you also might have troubles with any deep lug radial, but other than that I think you'll be ok.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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