Some Deere fuel gauges were polarity sensitive and seems like they were on the positive grounded 12 side of the 24 volt system. That way the same gauge may have worked for the gas 4020 that was also positive grounded. I have a gas 4020 that I've switched polarity when adding an alternator. My gas gauge mostly works, but its main problem was that the wiper on the rheostat in the sender was worn out.
Its hard to know how the light wiring was cobbled in the change. In theory with the original having a +12 and a -12 circuit where the lights needed to be matched to keep the two loads balanced, as far as the lights and accessories were concerned it was only necessary to connect the two power input leads (to the ignition and light switch) together and to the remaining +12 volts terminal on the starter solenoid. But that means keeping those original switches with two independent circuits switched simultaneously.
The original generator was only rated at 10 amps, likely it took at least half a day to charge the batteries after a start and that's without running any lights. The alternator should be more like 50 amps and handle a significant number of added lights. Though if there's airconditioning for the cab that clutch and fan motor will consume 15 to 20 amps.
A circuit diagram should be very similar to that of the gas 4010 or early 4020 without the ignition stuff and with a negative ground.
Light power would come from the battery terminal on the starter solenoid through a self resetting circuit breaker mounted on the kick panel near the "ignition" switch. It would go to the auxiliary input on that switch and that auxiliary output would feed the light switch. Since it was a 24 volt diesel there were two such circuits originally, one positive and one negative with respect to ground.
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