Any internal leakage in the tractor or baler hydraulic circiut can allow door creep. I fought one for years, tried everything on the baler. Nothing helped. Finally found with a set of gages that I had a very slow (less than 200 psi in 2 hrs) leak in a closed center spool valve internal to the tractors hydraulic system. Changed tractors and my door problem stopped.
As to throat plugging. Hay that is too wet or too dry will both cause problems during core formation. Wet hay wont feed into the bale chamber properly. Dry hay wants too spit back out instead of spin. During core formation the best solutions I have found
1. reduce pto speed to just above idle. 2. reduce ground speed, to where the baler is pulling hay into itself rather than allowing it to push into the windrow. Thats why I use bar rakes. The rope effect of the windrow lets to baler feed itself. 3. Stop as soon as any sign of feeding problems. Usually at this point I can boost RPM to 540 and it will feed on in. 4. Once bale size indicator begins to move increase RPM and gear up to normal baling speed.
Best technique for cleaning the baler I have found is to open the tailgate, engage safety locks, and clean from the back. Sometimes also removing the windguard feeder fingers helps. In baling round bale silage where the moisture is up in the 40-60% range I remove the wind guard completely, and normally gear down 1-2 gears. Using NH 650's now but I have 851's, 846's, and 847's for decades.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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