We built last year. Looked hard at ICF, SIP (Structural Insulated Foam panels) and metal. Settled on standard 2"x6" construction with radiant heated floors and Icynene foam in the walls (6") and under the roof (8"-10"). We insulated the roof sheathing instead of the ceiling, it keeps the heat from penetrating the attic. House is quite in hail, doesn't creak in high winds, cool in summer ($180 highest electric bill in hottest part of the summer) and warm the tail end of last winter.
Check out Warmboard radiant flooring sheets.
HAve your electric coop or company do an A/C and Heating load assessment to tell you waht size plant you need then DO NOT buy a bigger A/C than they say you need. Oversize A/Cs cycle on and off too much and waste energy.
Get good windows and doors (we chose fiberglass). Insulate you slab or foundation.
Google a guy named Doug Dye and check out his energy saving construction tips. Caulk everything. Watch insulation in the corners (don't end up with just studs at the corners or you'll get mold).
Look at solar heat.
We skipped carpet for allergy reasons and are happy with out Mexican tile and heart pine floors.
Check the construction up close every day, don't let the crews slip one past you (and they will try).
Don't do too much else while you're building your house (don't go back to college, have a baby or start a new busines) it requires focus and will involve marital stress. Breathe deeply.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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