Took me a while to figure out how you've got it plumbed but I think I've got it now-
You have the extra line from the control valve on the tractor going back to the reservoir, whatever that may be, so the oil still flows through it, just not to the cylinders.
For the lower, depending on how the hydraulics work on that set-up, they may already have a restrictor built in. On the factory hydraulics on our Oliver's they have restrictor valves, where you adjust a screw and lock it in with a nut. I had to make that adjustment on our 1855 for a spring tooth which would chatter very badly while lowering. After the adjustment, no more problems.
If you have an external ad-on valve, your best bet would be to buy a restrictor for that line. If you have a hydraulic shop nearby they should have it on hand, in stock.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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