I've been driving Loyales for 20 years - but they are getting hard to find that aren't rusted out. I've got over thirty of them sitting in my field. Best 4WDs I've ever driven - and will go - and stop - in places none of my full-size trucks or SUVs will. All my 4WD Loyale wagons can get over 30 MPG highway in summer - as long as they are manual trans. But, the non-OD automatics are awful - as least any I've had. They have 4.33 axle ratios along with a three-speed automtic with no overdrive. I've had half a dozen of the autos and they've all been terrible on gas (for a Subaru, that is). Actually, I still own them - they're sitting in my field. Besides being awful on gas, they are not true 4WD if automatic. The standard trans is conventional gear-drive, in or out, 4WD. But, the autos have a convoluted system that gradually adds oil pressure to a hydraulic clutch that engages 4WD. The more you stomp on the gas, the tighter it engages - which is kind of crazy. Sometimes you want full 4WD at light throttle.
In regard to the new ones being better on gas - don't count on it. Many are worse and don't come close to what the Loyales get - especially the ones with the bigger engines. My daughter has a 2005 Subaru Forester with the 2.5 and 25 MPG is the best highway mileage she's ever gotten.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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